Buzz vs. Facts
Skin care described as a double-edged sword
It is recommended to get skin care advice from a proven dermatologist or a skin care brand that works closely with skin care professionals. Promote treating your skin with compassion and respect.
Being compassionate about your skin means understanding that "skin is a reactive organ that reflects our overall health and well-being . It's more effective in the long run to be patient and wait, rather than expecting skin problems to resolve in a week or two solve.
Respecting your skin means avoiding habits that can damage your skin and cause long-term problems, such as sunbathing or harsh products and procedures.
Would like to see people treat their skin like any other organ. If something is wrong, see a medically trained doctor for diagnosis. "
It’s important to know which ingredients are really important
Social media has created the idea that people need so much to achieve results and the less time the better.
Many people feel compelled to use every ingredient that helps their skin, but this isn't necessary. In fact, one or a few ingredients can help solve many skin problems.
Plus, your skin is unique. What you need should be specific to your skin. All hype is dangerous because it leads young people to overdo things that are not beneficial or unnecessary for them.
In some cases, you can save money
Since consumers invest so much in skin care products, it's important to make the most of your dollars. To get a return on your investment, you need to decipher the ingredients on the label.
You also need to consider:
- how they are used
- Contents of certain ingredients in products
- What elements don’t mix well
Otherwise, the product may be ineffective or cause adverse reactions.
What makes ingredients important?
Remember these four questions:
- Does it work?
- How do you apply it?
- Will it penetrate the skin?
- Can your skin tolerate it?
Does it work?
It goes without saying: you want your product to work. Your dermatologist will do the same.
The first thing that makes an ingredient important to a dermatologist is, is it effective in achieving the end result?
If you want to combat dryness, there's no need to invest in retinoids designed to help with acne and anti-aging if you don't have these issues.
Can it be used externally?
In general, it is recommended to try topical medications or products that are applied to the skin before trying oral medications.
In some cases, oral medications may interact with other medications. For example, oral tranexamic acid can increase the risk of blood clots if taken with certain types of birth control.
However, for some problems, oral medications may be the best first-line treatment. For example, it can prevent acne from causing permanent scarring.
Sometimes a combination of oral and topical treatments is the best route. Talk to your dermatologist to learn more about the treatments that are right for you.
A 2019 study suggested that topically applied peptides combined with oral supplements could help improve skin quality, such as elasticity.
Another study in 2019 showed that oral supplements can help improve skin appearance, including firmness.
Will it penetrate the skin?
In order for certain ingredients to be effective, they need to penetrate the skin. Others, like the zinc in sunscreen, should remain on the skin's surface to protect against as much sunlight as possible. It is recommended that you ensure that the product's ability to penetrate or not penetrate the skin is consistent with your desired beauty goals.
Can your skin tolerate it?
Potential side effects are considered when evaluating products. The answer to this question often varies from patient to patient. Tolerance has a lot to do with skin type. Some people have more sensitive skin. Some people's skin is more resistant.
Decoding "Hypoallergenic"
If you have sensitive skin, you may want to use specific ingredients that won't cause irritation. Does this mean you should buy products labeled "hypoallergenic"?
This term refers to products that do not contain known allergens. However, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) notes that "there are no federal standards or definitions governing the use of the term 'hypoallergenic.' The term means whatever any particular company wants it to mean."
Rather than looking for products labeled as hypoallergenic, review a product's ingredient list to rule out specific allergens that may be causing irritation.
Skin-approved ingredients
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, making it an effective treatment for acne and rosacea.
A 2020 Acne Treatment Review shows this ingredient is not as effective as benzoyl peroxide in treating acne, but is just as effective as tretinoin.
2022 review suggests azelaic acid is effective in rosacea treatment. It also suggests that off-label use of the ingredient can help treat acne.
Products containing 15% azelaic acid require a prescription, but those containing 10% or less are usually available over the counter.
zinc
Zinc’s anti-inflammatory properties make it an effective ingredient in treating:
- acne
- rosacea
- eczema
Zinc can help speed wound healing. Zinc oxide is a common ingredient in sunscreen.
A 2018 study suggested topical zinc as a promising low-cost alternative acne treatment, and a 2014 review suggested topical and oral zinc could help treat rosacea and eczema.
A 2021 study in zebrafish suggests that topical zinc oxide becomes toxic and loses effectiveness in protecting from the sun's rays after 2 hours of UV radiation exposure. Researchers urge caution when formulating sunscreens using zinc oxide.
Before taking oral zinc, talk to your doctor to ensure proper dosage.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
This ingredient is a form of vitamin C. It is used in skin care products to help:
- Prevent free radical damage
- Supports collagen production
- Reduce hyperpigmentation
An older study from 2013 supports the idea that ascorbyl palmitate reduces free radicals on the skin.
A 2017 study suggested that topical vitamin C has anti-aging benefits.
Vitamin E & C
Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant that protects skin cells from free radical damage and strengthens the skin's barrier. It's found in foods like spinach and broccoli, as well as supplements and topical creams and serums.
A 2016 review of the use of vitamin E in dermatology showed that topical use of vitamins E and C in medications is often ineffective. However, in some cases, vitamin E can be combined with vitamin C to reduce skin cancer risk and sunburn.
Vitamins C and E effectively combine to protect the skin. Zinc oxide, niacinamide, vitamin C, and vitamin E work well together in sunscreen.
Retinol and retinoids
Retinol is an over-the-counter form of vitamin A. Retinoids, on the other hand, may require a prescription from a doctor or dermatologist. However, Differin gel is an over-the-counter retinoid.
They are usually used for:
- wrinkle prevention
- Smoothes fine lines
- acne treatment
A 2017 review expressed support for the use of topical retinol in acne treatment, in part because of its anti-inflammatory effects. A 2016 study suggested that retinol has “anti-aging” benefits. Retinols and retinoids treat acne by exfoliating the skin at a cellular level.
peptide
Patients seeking to slow the visible signs of aging. These amino acids support collagen and elastin, helping to achieve firmer skin.
A 2020 clinical study of 22 Asians showed that topical use of peptides for 2 weeks may help reduce wrinkles. Using peptides and retinol together is generally safe and effective.
Nicotinamide
Niacinamide, better known as vitamin B-3, can:
- Reduce redness
- Acts as anti-inflammatory
- Treat acne
- Brighten skin colour
- Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Provides UV protection
A 2021 review suggests that niacinamide can help with many skin issues, including:
- signs of aging
- psoriasis
- hyperpigmentation
- Risk of non-melanoma skin cancer
green tea extract
This popular antioxidant is spot on. Green tea extract can:
- Soothes skin
- Reduce free radicals and sun damage
- Help treat rosacea
A 2019 review suggested that green tea extract has anti-aging benefits and may protect against the harmful effects of UV radiation.
Ceramide
The body naturally produces a fatty acid called ceramide, but it is also useful in beauty products. Ceramides moisturize the skin and protect it from environmental factors, such as pollutants and extreme weather.
A 2020 study of eczema patients showed that a cream or lotion containing ceramides could relieve dryness and moisturize skin when applied topically.
hyaluronic acid
This buzz-boosting ingredient lives up to the hype by providing hydration.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is recommended because it really helps keep the skin hydrated, which is key to a healthy skin barrier. It can also help skin look plumper. Hyaluronic acid draws moisture into the skin and attaches to collagen. The body naturally produces HA to retain moisture to keep tissues hydrated, but you can also strengthen your skin by adding this ingredient to your daily routine.
According to a 2021 study of 40 women with signs of photoaging, HA is effective in improving:
- Smoothness
- full
- hydration
- fine lines
- wrinkle
As a 2022 review noted, it also aids in wound healing. HA also works well with retinol.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid is recommended for patients who want to improve hyperpigmentation.
Kojic acid inhibits melanin production and is therefore beneficial for hyperpigmentation, and kojic acid is particularly beneficial for those who are sensitive to hydroquinone.
A 2019 study showed that kojic acid was effective in treating hyperpigmentation and providing UV protection when used in creams and lotions.
Tranexamic acid
Like kojic acid, this ingredient can help treat hyperpigmentation. It is also effective when combined with hydroquinone.
A 2019 study showed that tranexamic acid and hydroquinone were about equally effective, but patients reported greater satisfaction and fewer side effects when using tranexamic acid.
Additional options: hot water
Another ingredient these three skin loves is thermal spring water. This mineral-rich water comes from natural springs and may help improve softness, reduce irritation, and neutralize free radicals.
Thermal water has many beneficial qualities. It has also been shown to balance the skin's microbiome and support skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema. It is recommended as a soothing treatment after laser surgery to help cool and calm treated skin, as well as during airplane travel to help moisturize skin on the go.
What you can skip
- synthetic fragrance
- synthetic color
- propylene glycol
- Coconut Oil (Facial)
- CBD oil
Perfumes and fragrances
Artificially scented products may make products smell more appealing, but these items can often cause irritation.
add color
Additionally, if the product is opaque, it may contain coloring. This ingredient only makes the product look more attractive to consumers but has no other value.
propylene glycol
Propylene glycol is often used to extend shelf life and prevent clumping. It can be annoying, which is probably why the Contact Dermatitis Association named it the 2018 Allergen of the Year.
coconut oil on face
Coconut oil can clog pores. While it may have some benefits for the skin, it may also cause breakouts on the face. It's best to use it as a body moisturizer, especially if you're prone to acne.
CBD oil
Although CBD oil can reduce inflammation, Colombo said its use as an "anti-aging" tool is unproven and overstated.
Safety
It is common to see discomfort in patients who combine retinol with:
- salicylic acid
- glycolic acid
- Benzoyl peroxide
But other times, patients respond well to these ingredients, especially when used at different times.
Patients often experience skin irritation after using AHA or BHA cleansers containing vitamin C and retinol.
At the very least, AHA or BHA can 'exfoliate' the outer layer of skin, leading to greater penetration of other active ingredients. In addition, AHA or BHA products may even change the pH of other skin care ingredient products, thereby changing their permeability. It is recommended to discuss skin care product combinations with a dermatologist and discontinue use if you notice irritation.
